Textured hair is (finally) having a moment

Curls get the girls. But the girls with curls have been ignored for too long.

And thus, a new untapped opportunity has arisen in the beauty market.

Over half of the world’s population has textured hair. But this category of beauty has been underfunded, underpublicised, and under-innovated for a very long time.

But with big celebrity names getting behind the movement, we’re about to see the boom of the textured haircare market.

This category has always been important to black and mixed-race consumers. But beauty brands have long underserved them.

For the last decade, there has been a large movement to embrace natural, textured hair, rather than using harsh chemical relaxers that straighten and damage it.

It is, at its core, a rejection of Eurocentric beauty standards.

Natural styles like cornrows, loc and afros have been an expression of BIPOC for centuries and are an integral part of black history.

Ideals rooted in Eurocentrism saw these styles pushed out to make way for smoothed and straightened styles. So in the early 20th century, products used to alter textured hair boomed. The products were heavily marketed to (and used by) BIPOC consumers.

The rejection of such products began during the civil rights movement. Black Panther members wore afros and different natural hairstyles as a political statement.

Fast forward to today and the movement is still going strong, maintaining the same values it began with.

The internet and social media have played huge roles in the mobilisation of the movement. And they've created community and conversation around textured hair health and product efficacy.

But the beauty industry has taken its sweet time catching up.

Despite the opportunity for innovation, there’s still been a major lack of choice available for people with textured hair types. Especially in comparison to the vast amount of general haircare products available on the shelves.

And this is particularly the case in European and UK markets.

'Brands are increasingly recognising the importance of catering to diverse hair types and skin tones, but challenges persist, including ensuring genuine representation and avoiding tokenism, addressing deep-rooted biases in beauty standards, and navigating regulatory hurdles,' says Aquila Augusta, founder of Edge Entity.

There is also the need for marketers to acknowledge that hair is an important part of a person’s identity. There’s an emotional connection to it. Especially when transitioning back to embracing their natural hair type.

Enter scene: Pro-Fro Pop Culture.

These natural hair baddies are leading the way in this beauty revolution on social media.

Solange Knowles wrote 'Don’t Touch My Hair”'about how her identity is deeply tied to her afro.

And now, two of our most beloved pop queens are helping pave the way for natural hair care.

Both Beyonce and Rihanna have entered the market with two separate brands focused on textured hair. And they aren’t the only celebrities bringing their own haircare lines to market in the last two years. Others include Tracee Ellis Ross, Rita Ora, and Gabrielle Union.

It seems celebrity power has also played a role in modernising a stagnant industry.

According to The Texture Gap Report, celebrity brands have contributed to a rush of innovation and formulation in the textured hair space.

Searches for 'textured hair' were up 41 per cent in 2023. And they're projected to grow by another 20 per cent by the end of 2024, according to Google search analytics.

Consumers are clearly searching for the right products to suit their hair needs.

And there's a huge opportunity for haircare brands to get on board.

Even Sephora has invested in the movement in a big way this year in hope of becoming synonymous as a haircare destination. The brand has displays spotlighting textured haircare brands across 75 locations.

Now a new law signed by New York State Governor, Kathy Hochul requires cosmetology schools throughout the state to educate and train students of all hair types and textures.

Previously, curly hair training wasn't part of cosmetology training programs. The new legislation follows the adoption of the CROWN act, 2019. This act prohibits race-based hair discrimination.

It includes circumstances like denial of employment or education due to hair texture or styles like braids or locs, as this is something BIPOC have experienced far too often over the years.

This marks the beginning of the evolution of textured beauty into the mainstream market.

And it's changing the beauty landscape as we know it.

According to Carra, an AI-driven hair personalisation programme, the textured hair market is estimated to be worth $10 billion. It has a compound annual growth rate of around 5%.

However, brands and businesses are failing to offer the right products, solutions and education to these consumers.

Are you a beauty brand or creator that could help? There’s no better time than now!

Create authentic and educational content. Develop educational content and resources that address the unique needs of textured hair. Engage with the community through social media, workshops, and events.

The textured hair movement is deeply tied to cultural identity and empowerment. Providing education on haircare techniques, product usage, and the historical significance of natural hairstyles fosters a sense of community. It also supports consumers in their haircare journey.

Collab with influencers in this space. Champion influencers who have a strong connection with the textured hair community. Highlight their personal journeys and experiences with natural hair.

Collaborations like this amplify reach and credibility. They also provide opportunities to introduce your audience to new products and brands that align with their needs and interests.

-Sophie, Writer